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Project: R.S. 2000 MK1 Classic ford cover August 2008
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This is were we started. |
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Into the fab shop and we trim the new panels and place the new panel on the car we then draw around the new panel
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Once we are happy we remove the panel and draw another line 25mm below |
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Then we cut a big hole in your car
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Here's how it looks once it's all cleaned up ready for welding |
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This bit is a bit tricky we have to make sure the fit is perfect before we start welding
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Front arch tack welded on this process is done very slowly to minimise distortion |
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Here we are filling in the tacks again this can not be rushed we weld one side then move to the otherside and so on
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This is what it should look like notice there is no distortion in the panel but we have good penetration with the weld |
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Works arch all cleaned back if this is done well the filler work in the bodyshop is so much easier
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Rear arch marked out ready for cutting out |
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Rear arch cut out there were some signs of rust in the arch so we could not save them
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All cleaned up |
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Clamped on ready to tack weld
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Tacked on rear arch |
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All filled in with no distortion
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All cleaned up |
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Turrets fully fitted |
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Turrets cleaned up |
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Drilling out the spot welds on the rear support this is a delicate operation we try not to drill through
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Removed and cleaned up |
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Diff tunnel cut out and cleaned
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Diff tunnel welded in as you can see the welds are very neat we prefere to use a pulse weld we have found this method gives us a very good penatration with very low distortion you can see by the blue heat mark that the heat is transfered evenley |
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Diff tunnel all cleaned up
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Cut out for link boxes |
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four link box fitted underneath
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For link boxes welded from both sides |
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four link boxes fitted and cleaned
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Rear support refitted and cleaned |
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Hole cut out for the watts linkage cover and the old damper mounting points plated
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Watts linkage cover fitted |
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Four link support cover fitted and cleaned
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Fitting double bulkhead support plate |
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Double bulkhead support plate fitted and cleaned
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Bulkhead lip removed |
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Watts towers fitted
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Steam clean of the wax oil |
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Underneath blasted and start seam welding
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This is the good side |
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This was what was under the plate good job we looked
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All chopped out back to good steel |
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There are two plates to go in
one underneath the other
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Here are the two plates layed on top |
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This is the finished item even got the ribs back in it now looks good
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Two more repairs |
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The cage and the fire wall is finished apart from the sill bars.
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We have had to do a little mod on the pedal box as the stud in the upper left corner came right were the inner wing goes
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the rad mod is nearly done just the top to cut a bit out of |
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we have cut out the gear leaver hole and removed the old gearbox x member brackets fitted the engine and box but it still needs some work we might lower the front x member to make the engine look good in the engine bay at the moment it sits up to high and so tilts back slightly
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The rear end has been mocked up but we will need the coilovers very soon I would like to do a dry build and get the car rolling and steering |
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These bits fit together and the clutch release thing is great we have had a few ideas on mounting things I think this car is going to look very nice I am starting to get a feel for it and I am looking forward to working on it
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This is the underneath finished. |
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Handbrake brackets
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Boot floor finished |
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Gearbox tunnel support plate
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Sorted the seat, drivers seat is adjustable on sliders a bit trick these are the bolt fixings through the chassis. |
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Seat belt fixings
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A cut out for the seat and support plates for the seat fixings |
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The inspection plate for the gearbox shame to put a carpet on it
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No hole here |
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Petrol cap blanked
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The panels are well under way now |
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The doors are in very good condition they had a fair bit of filler in them for some reason
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There is some signs of active rust it's hard to see by this picture |
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We took no chances we have used a mini drill like the one's in the dentist and dug out all the bad stuf
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Every time any panel is stripped at the end of every day we etch prime all bare steel |
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Here this door has been stripped any trace of rust removed filled and etch primed we use a very good quality wash etch it goes of like stone even though you don't have to bake it we do and we bake for 1 hour.
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A nice painted bonet |
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All stripped.
The car is going into paint on Tuesday it will look great
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Showing the cylinder fixings.Also shows the clutch bleed bracket welded to the bulk head |
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after the shell came out of the fab shop it was put into the blast room for some areas to be blasted and then into a paint booth were we used a good two pack wash etch primer and then baked the shell
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We have started to strip the panels on the car ie wings and rear qtrs. |
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All the arches are stripped ready for the filler work after we strip anything we etch prime the panel to make sure no surface is open to any type of contamination
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We don't strp any more of the panel than we need to at this stage, this is a panel after stripping and priming |
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Bare areas inside have been blasted and primed
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This side ready for filler work |
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A bit more stripping needed on this and then filler.
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The panels enjoying another bake (when we bake the shell) |
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Before we do any fillerwork we fill the arch with fibreglass for added strength.
We do this to all the arches.
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After that we apply some filler and start to get the shape back.
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At the end of every shift the bare metal panels are etch primed and baked. |
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After some inspection we found some adhesion problems with the original paint work so we blasted all areas that were lacking adhesion.
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Rear inner arch blasted |
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Underneath blasted
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Inside the boot some parts were ok so we will deal with these by hand it's kinder on the metal. |
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Inside blasted the area you can see still painted is were the sealer is we will removed this by hand and we will reseal it after etch primer
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All blasted surfaces get etch primed as soon as we can.
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Here we go with the spray filler this is a polyester product that is quicker to form than filler so we get the basic shape with filler then get the shape quite close with polyester then fine tune it in primer.
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Rear wing in polyester
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I am a bit of a pain to the lads about the lines they take a long time to get right if you look at any of our cars the lines are sharper than normal and this shows of the paintwork the devil is in the detail as they say. |
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These are guide coat lines we use these as a visual guide for getting the lines sharp and straight
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Its a bit tricky as the line changes shape as it enters the works arch |
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These lines are the most important to be right if you look at many escorts with works arches on you will find these lines are wrong.
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Here we are in final prep
all the surfaces have been prepared and filled ready for priming. |
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Inside floor
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Inside gearbox tunnel
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Underneath |
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Here we have the engine bay in high build primer
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Inside in primer
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The hole car in high build primer |
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After the car has been primed
(3 coats) baked and allowed to cool we apply a guide coat to the primer, this guide coat helps us to see any imperfections as we rub down the primer.
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Giude coat inside
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After we have rubbed down the primer we flat the hole area using a soft pad the soft pad gets into all the nooks and cranies
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Now the car is masked up ready for seam sealing and stone guard (smooth tex) |
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Every seam on the underside is now sealed and then wiped smooth this is a long process but worth it for the protection and looks
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After the seam sealer has been baked and cooled we apply a primer so the stone guard covers without any seperation |
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All the underneath primed and ready for the stone guard
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Applying the stone guard we have thinned the stone guard down to give it a smoother texture but still retaining protection |
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This is the stone guard after it has been baked and cooled
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The next stage is to scotch all the stone guard ready to receive its final coat of high build primer |
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After we apply the final coat of primer the car is baked |
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Next the car will be scotched de-masked and then degrease all the surfaces and re-mask the car ready for top coat.
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Seam sealer to engine bay, we seal all seams over the whole car. |
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After the seam sealer has been applied it is smoothed and baked then we apply a low build primer an adhesion promoter. |
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After the primer is cured it is de-greased and tacked ready for top coat.
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The underside and the engine bay is painted at the same time.
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After the car has a long bake and cooled down we have to mask of every hole in the engine bay and underneath to stop any overspray. |
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All the inside is guide coated and rubbed down by hand to ensure a good finnish |
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More seam sealer
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More seam sealer and then we ali tape all the unused holes |
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Bulk head seam sealed
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The inside seam sealed |
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We have fitted new sound deadening pads to the inside and the boot.
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After the seam sealer has cured we prime the sealer and any break throughs |
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As you can see all the unused holes are gone.
The inside now gets de-greased and tacked ready for top coat |
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The inside being sprayed electrostaticly
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The roof all blocked down ready for top coat |
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Now the car is painted underneath we can weld up the spit holes and work on the front and rear panels.
This picture is the spit holes being welded up after welding they are filled and primed
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Here are the new door gaps we fit the panels to make sure of good lines the doors have a small skim of filler then we block through the door and the wing to get an even surface level. |
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Shell all blocked down ready for re-masking de-greasing and tacking for top coat. |
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After the boot has been blocked and rubbed down by hand any break throughs are re primed.
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Showing the new sound deadening pads in the rear qtrs. |
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Front panel primed ready for blocking.there are pictures of these panels in guide coat and after blocking.
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Rear panel primed and ready for blocking. |
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The boot painted.
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The turrets look like they were fitted by ford. |
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But the paint work looks a lot better than ford and it still needs a flat and polish.
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The lights in the spray booth make the colour look a bit odd. |
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This is how we get the paint to look so nice after the paint has cooled we flat the hole car using 1200 dry d.a. then 1500 dry d.a. |
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Then we use a three stage polishing system being very carefull on the edges
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This is the result after the second stage we will leave the car now until it is built then we will clean the car and do the final polish. |
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More shinny bits
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To stop sun glare we paint the dash as ford did but we include the roll cage tubes
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Even though you don't see this area it makes the front end look realy good when built |
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More painted bits.
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Here are the reservoirs fitted this is a standard fitment on our cars now they look cool.
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Wiring well under way. |
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Rear light fitted and wired
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Boiler room getting started |
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Checking the axle for the damper mounts to be welded then we can paint the axle and link bars.
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The hard line comes out of the gearbox and then goes to braided hose
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The fuel regulator and the hard line.
This runs all the way to a bulk head fitting in the boot.
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The clutch feed pipe comes through the bulkhead here on a bulkhead fitting. The bracket next to it is the clutch bleed pipe fixing. |
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Engine and gearbox back together and ready to fit for the final time
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We have had to do some mods on the rad the top hose was facing the wrong way and the fan switch hit the rad mount it did not look right so I mooved it |
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Clutch pipes in looking good.
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Pedal box in and all piped up
this was a mission we have modified the throtle pedal and the bios adjustment I thought these things would bolt streight in I havent fitted one yet that did. |
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The brake pipes are all in except across the axle.we run these inside the inner wing it takes a bit of clutter out of the engine bay.
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The rear brake line fitted.
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The old diff needed a bit of love.
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The prolight hoses look the part I don't like steel braided hoses you can see the catch tank fitted on the inner wing out of the way we try to keep the engine bay as neat and tidy as we can. |
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Here is were we hide the oil cooler. note no fixing bolts in the slam panel the bolts are all hidden.
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Fuel pump fitted pro light hoses and airoquip fittings of course, the feed hose runs around the back of the tank then through the floor with a bulk head fitting to 10mm hard line fixed to the chassis forgot to get a picture of that, note to self take a picture of hard line. Just had a look there is a picture of the hard line further up I will get one from underneath
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Some painted parts notice the propshaft it looked close so we painted it its about an inch to long so I will have it sorted next week |
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Steering column in.
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Shinney or what.
This build is getting better every day the car is stunning every detail looks right. |
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Here is the battery the main lead runs up over the boot shut and along the passenger sill through to the engine bay, The small wire is the main feed for the fuel pump it will be fused near the battery and a relay will be put under the left hinge bracket the pump would run ok without a relay but we like to fit one
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Axle being fitted we have borowed some dampers for now |
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The rad fitted but I don't like the rad brackets they are a bit to big so I will take it out and shape them.
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The interior is coming on now
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Sweet looks the part. |
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The rear box, we are trying only one box should be ok |
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The prop is being made |
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Here is the fuel line |
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This is the rear veiw of the tacho installed it looks factory we will even use the original bulbs and fittings.
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And here is the front veiw it's a good match.
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Nearly ready for a fire up I have had an air filter made for the car it came today once thats on we can start the car
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The doors are on the windows are in when we fitted the new rubber for the front screen it was to short on one corner so we have fitted the old one it fits much better and looks fine. |
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The prop is all new the uj's on the rs2000 prop are to small and you can not service them this prop has bigger cosworth uj's.
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The sump guard looks a bit strange from this photo but it looks good on the car. |
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All the clocks are in and we are starting on the carpet
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The knob under the dash next to the light switch is the bios adjuster |
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Looks like a car.
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Tail pipe |
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The washer bottle lives here now and it is electric
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What a mission this little sod has been ( alternator )still all sorted now.
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How sexy does this car look. |
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When the dampers are fitted we will give the car a final polish fit the decals fit the carpets and seats do a set up then mot.
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We will locate the canister on the 6 link towers so they can be adjusted both the front and the rear dampers have helper springs |
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The front canisters we will locate here still have to sort out the throttle cables
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The dampers look good and have a lot of adjustments looking forward to setting up the car it will be a great all round car. |
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This is a wiggins fiting normaly found on an f1 car so if it's good enough for them it must be good enough for us
( and it's a bit sexy )
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Front damper pot fitted and showing the new throttle cables
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They now go thrugh the front panel behind the rad |
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Rear damper pot mounted
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Front veiw of car grill has been re-painted |
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The drivers seat is in just waiting for some more rear door cards. The rear's we have look old. |
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The front door cards are nice. They come with the hole marks in place, you just have to cut them out for the fitment of the handles. We used the back fittings from the old door cards, The new ones don't come with any. They popped on easy.
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Ali floor plates are made and fitted. |
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We tryed to trim the fuel guage for an hour with no success, so we took the tank out and found that the sender fouled the side of the tank so we bent the arm this way and that way.
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Most tank senders have 5 holes if this was the case we would have fitted a VDO unit but the one in this tank has 6 holes. |
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As you can see the float will not go all the way to full as it hits the side of the tank we have bent it in all ways if you get full you don't get empty
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This is the norm. |
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This is the trim pot box for the fuel guage inside it has two trimers one to trim the tank at full and one for empty clever little box.
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This car has got wider we have had to cut the bib spoiler and put in 2" |
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Here is the new sender fuel guage should work ok now
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After seting up the castor camber and track we check the corner weights this is a light car kermit was 920 kg this one is 904 kg with 3 gallons of fuel and the corner weights are very good as you can see from the set up sheet below |
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Looking forward to driving this one. |
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Started the car and drove it today all guages lights and clocks work including rev counter.
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Here are the foot plates.
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Radiator fitted with new water pipes and wigins fittings.
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Missed the steering wheel here you go.
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Off for mot this afternoon
it will be good to give the car a run |
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All finished.
Or is it ? |
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Whats this a tractive gearbox
oh well lets fit that then
I know lets send the engine of to the engine builder and get some more power out of it.
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This is the gear lever there is a knob that goes on top |
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The gear indicator that goes with the gear box is quite big but it is smart when the revs reach the point to change gear the gear indicator changes from green to red how sweet is that
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I don't know if you can read this but if not here is the web address www.tractive.se
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Will you see this ok !!
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How the f**ck do these fit into a mk1
I will fit the engine and gearbox then fit the manifold to make shure all ok then send of for plasma coating
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This is how the gear leaver looks in a race car
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This is it mocked up it has taken 7 hours to get here |
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This is the plate from the other gearbox as you can see the wankers have machined a pocket in this as well it comes right in the path of the sealing o ring for the tractive gearbox
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But we can fix it |
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Here we have the thrust bearing sorted
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Ready for the big chop out |
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Go on Oddie
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Here is the hole we needed for the gearbox.
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So I had a sheet of metal rolled to the same size as the gearbox then we tacked it in the hole and made sure the gearbox was easy to work on. |
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Then we filled in the front and back and formed the prop tunel to the new gearbox cover this sounds realy easy but it did take a lot of time.
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The gearbox bracket it made of 5mm plate so it is very strong.
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After we had made the linkage brackets we had to refit the engine and gearbox for the 53rd time to make sure the gears work ok we had to have the rods cut and machined so they were the right length.The gear leaver mount has been strengthened so the gear leaver does not move we found with mine that because the floor flexed a bit the gearbox was going through two gears at a time. |
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It is taking some shape now at first I was a bit unsure about the gearbox cover but now I think it looks great. |
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I think henry ford would like it |
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WOW how big is that manifold its tight but it will be ok.
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Tea anyone I think we will have to move this |
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We have put the gear indicator on top of the gearbox cover it was the only place it could go.
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Sneaky, this is the line lock button I have fitted a second switch under the dash so this will not be live untill you turn on the other switch.
I have got to wire up the gear indicator fit and mod the exhaust remove the manifold and have it coated fit the new speedo fit the floor plates fit the protection for the inner wing relocate washer bottle fill all fluids test everything run the gearbox in set up the suspension (I might take it to Jems he has set mine up and what a good job he has done) few other bits and bobs and the car will be done.
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All the inside is wired and the gearbox works so well it is better than mine for some reason. I think it's because the floor is so solid. |
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This is the wheel speed sensor it is located on the drivers side front wheel. |
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We have fitted a in line pump for the washers.
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We have moved the suspension cans to the rear of the bulk head so they are out of the way of the manifold.
I don't think we will need to protect the bonnet from the heat. |
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The speedo is now in after some hastle
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We have had to lose the main beam light to get the speedo in so we have fitted an led on the cowling thats the litle blue light you can see. |
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The new speedo looks great.
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As the engine is nearly 300 bhp we have had to move the catch tank
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Looking good lost the bib spoiler.
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Here is the car finished (again ) Cover car and fetured in August 2008 Classic ford mag.
Thanks Mark look forward to the next one Mick.
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Dash and Kick panels flocked |
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We have also flocked the shelfs they look cool.
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